For true craft beer enthusiasts, understanding the origin story behind each pint is crucial, as is enjoying the brew where it was produced. And if you’re really lucky, the experience will transcend the taproom and bring you on a journey to distant places, whether it’s to Chile for a fresh spin on the German Festbier style or New Zealand to surprise the palate with unique hops.
Such was the case on a recent visit to Phantom Farms Brewing, one of the state’s newest craft breweries, where I met up with founder Jay Neveu and his brewing team to enjoy a few samples. The 10-barrel brewery, which opened in March, is located on the site of the 152-year-old Berkeley Mill, a four-story building along the banks of the Blackstone River. The factory originally housed over 900 looms for making fine textiles and employed hundreds of workers. Today, the space that once served as the mill’s boiler room is the site of a modern taproom spread over two levels, with massive brewing tanks adjacent to plentiful indoor and outdoor seating.
The brewery’s success is due in large part to head brewers Oscar Garrido and Andrea Riera, the husband-and-wife team from Chile who moved to Rhode Island last year to lead brewing operations. Both operated noteworthy Chilean breweries and previously worked in New Zealand and California. Garrido is known for including rare ingredients that produce truly unique flavor profiles in his beers.
“We’re very conscious about the ingredients we use,” noted Neveu. “For example, our ciders incorporate a blend of apples that come from the farm. We planted a peach orchard there last spring and we’re excited for the fall harvest this year. For our pumpkin ale, we used all the pumpkins leftover from last season.”
While there, I sampled a few seasonal selections, along with a couple of top sellers. I began with the Vibrant Voyage, a hoppy IPA that goes down smooth with a mildly bitter aftertaste and a slight burn that lingers. It’s probably not for everyone, but as a fan of juicy IPAs, this one tops my list for drinkability.
Next up, I was among the first guests to try the 2024 Festbier, a fall favorite, which I enjoyed directly out of the tank, where it was being readied for canning. The singular blend includes austral pepper from the Canelo tree found in Chilean Patagonia, an ingredient you won’t find at most local breweries. I noted hints of caramel, anise, and nutmeg in the malty, amber-toned brew.
A taste of Pyroclastic convinced me that any season is stout season. The strong brew – for sipping, not chugging – packs a punch with strong hints of coffee and chocolate. Next up, their Bohemian pilsner Footloose, recently awarded a Silver Medal in the Bohemian and International Pilsner category at the Aro Rojo International Beer Competition in Mexico, is a rich medium-bodied refreshing beer, with a distinctly bitter aftertaste common in the Czech tradition.
I found Pulsar, a sour brewed with New Zealand motueka hops, to be quite enjoyable and not too tart. I’m generally not a fan of sours, but kettle sours, such as this stand-out beer, are distinct from the traditional fruited ones. It’s refreshing, with a mild lemon tang, neither sweet nor bitter, offering a smooth yeasty aftertaste. And it’s packed in one of the prettiest cans around, thanks to Riera, who designs many of the brewery’s labels.
A visit to Phantom Farm Brewing is an experience to be savored, much like the beers they offer. The warm, inviting space is perfect for a quick stop after work or for relaxing on a lazy Saturday afternoon. With food trucks regularly parked outside, trivia every Wednesday evening, and live music most Fridays and Saturdays, “the mill” could become a regular hang.
(Not to be confused with the farm of the same name)
30 Martin Street, Cumberland
Comments
No comments on this item Please log in to comment by clicking here